Saturday 21 August 2010

STYLEIN 
STYLEIN 
STYLEIN 
STYLEIN 
S/S 10


FIT schooled designer Elin Nystrom managed to present a cohesive collection which very quietly flowed down the runway. 

For a collection that cites individualism, contrasts elegance, powerful confidence and the dynamics of friendship as key notes, there was a distinct lack of vision, passion and intimacy.
All characteristics in friendships as I know them.

Perhaps it was the fact that Stylein proved to be the the third designer in a row  that day that chose to explore clean shapes and a grey colour palate without communicating any real substance, that paved way for ones  very subdued impressions of the collection as a whole.

As separate pieces however the collection was faultless.
There are some pretty great basics, jersey tank tops in Cacao brown, maxi dresses in Light Champagne and dirty pistachio green.
Lines were simple and soft, and designer Elin ensured that no major trend went untouched.
There was the printed jersey leggings and harem trousers, maxi skirts and delicate flow-y printed maxi dresses.
There is no doubt of the commercial potential in Stylein's collection, however given the competitiveness in the current market where established brands are fighting to survive, vision and presentation becomes key for longevity.

A heavier emphasis on contrasting materials and cuts would of balanced out the silent shouts of the pieces, and reach Elin's desired  and much sought after harmonious collection.
Marion
 Marion 
Marion
Marion 
Marion

Marion Cotillard working the stripes and bleached eyebrows for Vogue Paris September Issue
    
Crystal    
  Crystal
       Crystal
             Crystal Renn

Chanel Joins The Big Girl Trend
The "big" girl trend continues with Lagerfeld perhaps desperate attempt to inject some contemporary relevance to Chanel. Which has  rightly been criticized for losing it's fashion mystique. Crystal looks great however I wish we could see more of her "curves". 



















Friday 20 August 2010

Vogue Russia Sept 10 Cover

aliona
aliona
aliona
aliona


Hot mama Natalia Vodianova works it for the September issue of Vogue Russia which is also the last issue edited by the ever so fucking fabulous Aliona Doletskaya.
You will be missed.
source: Designscene




Thursday 19 August 2010

Cheap Monday S/S 2011







Cheap Monday S/S 2011


It has been a whole fashion year since designer Ann-Sofie Back resumed the position of Creative Director for cult denim label Cheap Monday together with founder Orjan Andersson.


Ms Back seems to have finally settled in her new role as the 'Just Cheap' SS collection proves to be her best one for the brand yet.

The now Stockholm based Sofie has found a brilliant way to communicate her often ironic point of view and pop culture references / comments, in a much more commercially accessible way than in her BACK by Ann-Sofie line.
Her points of reference serves as a great narrative to Orjans incredible expertise and passion for denim.

Ironically playing with it's name the collection cites unexpected references of tacky galore, such as Latin Denim Fashions, Italian Diamonte and LA Celebrity taste.

The collection was executed with a very intelligible restraint, through a more fabric focused notion of' 'Cheapness'. Highlights included fabulous knee and ankle high boots in clear plastic that will sure become a must have of the new season.
Wide cropped silhouettes with long length skirts, over sized sheer knits, jerseys and wovens came in Nude, Bunny Pink, Mustard and Cloud Grey.
The skinny model of jeans was completely abandon and gave way for the new hipster.

Being cheap has certainly never looked this good.

The Local Firm S/S 2011







The Local Firm


The Local Firm belongs to that uber cool members club only part of Swedish fashion together with denim-turned-high-fashion juggernaut that is ACNE, Minimarket, and in many ways also Cheap Monday.
Worshipped by fashionistas on a global scale the brands fan base ranges from design obsessed bloggers to seriously cool senior fashion editors.

This season the brand moved away from the knits and darker palette of A/W for an Architecture / Bauhaus inspired collection, in various shades of greys and contrasting materials, clean lines and fashion nerd detailing
.
Following ACNE's lead the brand is now moving away from it's denim roots for summer by combining a range of sporty materials and cuts that seem less hipster, and much more of like a glimpse of what the fashion gods have prepared for us in this new decade.

The label has cleverly interpreted the 90s revival and incorporated its design aesthetics very naturally.
Think 90's Calvin Klein or Courtney Love had she stayed of drugs.
Minimal, grungy without fuss and sexy.

Ida Sjostedt S/S 2011 @ Stockholm Fashion Week






Ida Sjostedt S/S 2011

Walking into the 'Secret Garden' of designer Ida Sjostedt is a bit like being catapulted into a 1970s version of Alice in Wonderland.
The sensory overload presented by the Swede for S/S 11 follows her signature tasteful kitsch, injecting colour into an otherwise very grey outlook for summer by other Swedish labels. Her daring palette of Bollywood inspired glamour with gold sequence high waisted skirts, one shouldered maxi print dresses, leopard print shorts and delicate lace pieces layered for a luxe effects felt familiar yet new and exciting. The tongue-in-cheek valley of the dolls hair and make-up beautifully wrapped the concept of a charmingly playful and confident woman for spring. Sexy, flirty and slightly pornographic in the now infamous ‘Rollergirl’ (character from ‘Boogie Nights’ made iconic by Heather Graham) A stark contrast to the delicate flowers and hard edged imagery we have been seen in recent seasons. Once the catwalk looks are deconstructed and interpreted for everyday life you end up with a fabulous set of individual statement pieces that will no doubt have an everlasting impression in your wardrobe.

Mercedes Benz Stockholm Fashion Week: NAKKNA S/S 2011



A surprisingly international crowd of fashionistas graced the front row

including Sussie ' Style Bubble', Bryanboy, Style.com, American Vogue of

the opening of Mercedes Benz Stockholm Fashion Week.



Once the ribbon was ceremoniously cut we were taken to a fabulous 'Cloud'

by NAKKNA, as they presented their S/S 11 Show, aptly titled 'The Cloud'.



Asymmetrical was the word du jour, in a not surprisingly minimalistic and

subtly avant garde approach to spring, as we have come to expect from the

Swedish super brands such as ACNE, Filippa K and Cheap Monday.



Yet there there was somehow a unique fluidity and consistency in the

brands 15th collection that felt refreshing and attractive.

The design trio's experience and confidence in their designs aesthetics

clearly communicated the ethos of a young brand with a sharp and cohesive

vision.

The design trio Consisting of ex Beckman's School of Design students

Camilla Sundin, Claes Berkes and Ella Soccorsi (the Central Saint Martins

of Scandinavia) have started to make waves in the industry as part of

Topshop's EDIT selection.



The intricate and complexed construction was the basis of the collection.

Key pieces including asymmetrical jersey jackets, and beated tailored

pieces that looked fragile and utterly personal. The were also soft pieces

with maxi printed kaftan on silk jersey in various shapes.

Trousers were wide and came in desert camel tones whilst the male shape

stayed dark and on the 'skinny' .



An impressive start to a hopefully lovely week indeed.